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Our Guide to Essential Oils

Note: These are only some suggestions – there are many more oils for skin care preparations. Most of the oils have psychological and emotional uses as well.

Use small amounts of oils, unless otherwise stated – these are very powerful botanicals (see book Facelift at Your Fingertips for more details).

Artemisia (Artemisia arborescens)Inflamed skin conditionsPrinciple Skin Care Uses
Atlas Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica)Mature, damaged, dermatitis, acne, oily skin hair loss celluliteReduces spider veins, scars, stimulates lymphatic system. Use carefully and sparingly.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)Oily skin, insect repellantMosquito and wasp bites, hair growth, eczema, acne, shingles and herpes.Chamomile, lavender Carriers: all, esp. calendula (damaged)
Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)Pain, sprains, muscle contractions, arthritis, rheumatismPowerful analgesic properties, antineuralgic, immuno-stimulant.
Bitter Orange (Citrus aurantium)Dull, dry, oily congested, acne, wrinklesStrengthens and softens skin, stimulates nerve endings, aids in hydration, calms oil gland functions, increases hydro lipid layer, supports regeneration, aids cellulite and stretch marks.Excellent for skin
Chamomile, Roman (Chamamelum nobile)All skin types - great for blonde hair, hyper sensitive skinCalming, anti-inflammatory - better for children; esp. good for Burns, dermatitis, eczema, antibacterial, calming, diaper rash, eases puffiness, strengthens and tightens tissue, best for dry, itchy and hypertensive skin. Emollient, cicatrizant, analgesic.Lavender, rosewood, tea tree
Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita)Same, esp. eczemaMore chamazulene (for above effects) so only a little is needed; most anti-inflammatory for skin, analgesic, anti-allergenic.same
Cistus/Labdanum (Cistus ladanifer) "Leaves of rock rose"Mature, wrinkles, inflamed, irritated, acneAids wound healing regenerating for slow healing.*great in small amounts
Clary sage (Salvia sclarea)Aging and oilyAcne, inflamed skin, wrinkles, anti-depressant, fluid and hormone regulating, hypo-tensive, migraines, cellular regenerator *Do not use if history of breast cancerCedarwood, cypress, geranium, lavender, mandarin, neroli, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot, hazelnut, hypericum wheatgerm
Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens)Oily, flushed, cellulite, water retention, varicose veins, excessive perspiration, overly hydrated skin, acneAnti-bacterial and astringent, reduces spider veins, anti-spasmodic, reduces menopausal tensionChamomile, clary sage, lavender, tea tree. Cellulite: grapefruit, fennel juniper berry. Carriers: borage, calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia
Carrot seed (Daucas carota)Best in scar blends, and also esp. dehydrated, by cold, dry winter, couperose, callouses, mature skin, eczema, boilsImproves tone and elasticity, deters wrinkles, dermatitis, rashes and skin discolouration, changes the moisture retention under the skinAbsolutely amazing - Use as part of regular treatment - up to 2%, but usually .05%
Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus)Oily skin and hairPerspiration, insect repellant, deodorizer
Elemi (Canarium lozonicum)Aged skin, inflammation, wrinklesCell rejuvenator, cooling on skin, heals and closes wounds
Frankincense (Boswellia carterii)Dry, aging neck, scars, wrinkles, stretch marksAnti-inflammatory, astringent, immuno-stimulant promotes healingClary sage, geranium, lavender, myrrh in calendula for neck. Carriers: apricot, borage, calendula, lime blossom
Galbanum (Ferula galbaniflua)Scars, wounds, inflammationsHeals scar tissue, tones mature skin, softens wrinkles, calms and heals ulcers, absesses, lesions esp. long standing cancersAll listed essential oils and carrier oils
Geranium, Rose (Pelargonium graveolens)All, esp. oily, acne, burns, dry or weepy eczema, itchy, inflamed skinFungicidal, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiinfectious, antiseptic. The scent easily dominates, mosquito repellant, helps protect skin from sun, constricts blood vessels, regulates congestion, accumulated fluids, and poor elimination; gentle but powerful, cellular regenerative, balances oil secretion - absolutely one of the best!
Grapefruit (Citus paradise)Oily skinTones congested skin, lightens skin, aids hair growth
Green Myrtle (Myrtus communis m.)Hay fever and allergic congestionAnti-infectious, anti-allergenic, anti-spasmodic, decongestant, sinusitis, bronchitisChamomile, cypress, mandarin, neroli, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, jojoba, macadamia, olive
Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum) ImmortelleBurns, wounds, acne, sars, couperose skin, frost burn, mature skinHelps protect skin ultra-violet rays; the “super arnica” - treats damaged and congested skin. Antiinflammatory, antiphlogistic, anti-coagulant, prevents bruises, cicatrizant and phlebotonicClary sage, geranium, lavender, palma rosa. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum
Jasmine (Jasminum officinale)Oily, mixed and sensitive skin, dry, greasy, stretch marks, dermatitis, intense itching (pruritis)Soothing, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antiinflammatoryGeranium, palma rosa, Roman chamomile, rosewood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, macadamia, olive, almond
Juniper Berry (Juniperus communis)All skin types - psoriasis, stretch marks, weeping and infected eczema, celluliteAnti-inflammatory, alleviates anxiety, good for stiff joints, expels uric acid, powerful detoxifying agent, steam with juniper for congested oily skin with blackheads *use sparinglyCellulite - grapefruit
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) *All skin types, acne, dermatitis, dry and wet eczema, insect bites & stings, rashes, rosacea, sunburn, wounds, burnsAnti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic, antiinfectious, regenerative, prevents scarring, regulates puffiness which causes puffy skin, calming and regulating to the nervous system, cellular regenerator, balances sebum, cicatrizant, analgesicOther citrus oils, geranium, neroli. Stretch marks:1 drop mandarin, neroli, lavender with 10 ml almond - rub 2x day after 4th month. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, olive
Lemon (Citus limonum)Cellulite, acne, boils, corns, couperose and dry skin, thin hair and nailsBalances sebum, strengthens epidermis function, tightens blood vessels, stimulates connective tissue, lightens skin pigments, shines hair and increases growth
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citrates)Oily, infections, celluliteCounters acne, athletes foot, enlarged pores - tissue toner, lymphatic detox, aids in weak connective tissue and tightens elastin weaknessFor shingles: combine with jojoba and spray on skin.
Mandarin (Citrus reticulata var. mandarin)Oily, congested, combination, acne, scars, pimples, stretch marksToning, antiseptic, fungicidal, anti-spasmodic, improves circulation of fluids, calmingCypress, frankincense, geranium, rosewood, tea tree. Apricot, calendula, hypericum, jojoba, almond.
Marjoram (Origanum marjorana)Muscle and arthritic pain, stiffness, spasms, neuromuscular contractionsOne of the most effective agents for relaxing muscle tension; analgesic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, neurotonic, sedativeAll essential oils, esp. chamomile, geranium, lavender and rose otto Carriers: all esp. apricot, avocado and hazelnut
Melissa (Lemon Balm) (Melissa officinalis)Herpes SimplexReduces healing time, and lengthens time before another occurrence, insect bites (esp. bees and wasps)All listed essential and carrier oils
Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha)Aging, chapped, cracked, cutaneous ulceration, fungal infections, weeping eczema, wrinklesAntiseptic, fungicidal, anti-inflammatory, healing oil, gum health
Neroli (Citrus aurantium var. amara)All types, esp. dry, aging skin, and spider or varicose veins and broken blood vessels.Antibacterial, fungicidal and healing and has a dual effect on the CNS: it is calming and an antidepressant, as well as a gentle tonic that combats fatigue and poor concentration, improves elasticity.Cedarwood, cypress, geranium, rosewood, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado, hazelnut, lime blossom, almond
Niaouli (Melaleuca quinquenervia var. cineol)All types, esp. Infected skin problems, acne, insect bites, both eczemasStrongly disinfectant, anti-viral, anti-bacterial and fungicidal, stops itching and allergic reactions, neat on athlete’s foot, powerful anti-inflammatory, protects from deep radiation burns if used pre & post radiation (10% in rosehip oil). x-rays too.Cedarwood, clary sage, cypress, geranium, lavender, neroli, palma rosa, rose otto, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia nut
Oregano (Origanum vulgare)Infection, pain, bleedingExtremely anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. Caution with use Broad spectrum antimicrobial, antiseptic, with fungicidal action comparable to tea tree and niouli; very gentle on the skin and hydrating (eases upper respiratory tract infections), cellular regenerator, regulates sebum
Palma Rosa (Cymbopogon martini)All types: a must! Esp. for acne, dermatitis, both eczema’s, dry skin, scars, wrinklesAnti-microbial, insect repellant, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, astringent, cracks, scars, wrinkles, wounds, chapped skin.
Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin)All skin types. esp. acne, athlete’s foot, dandruff, impetigo, inflammatory and allergic skin, seborrheic dermatitis, spider, varicose or broken veins, weeping eczemaAdd sparingly - very distinctive…
Peppermint (Mentha piperiata var. vulgaris)Shingles: esp. unresolved chicken pox, acne, dermatitis,Detoxification, constricts capillaries, relives itching, inflammation, softens and degreases skin, removes blackheads, aids retaining water in tissue, cools skinDry: clary sage, geranium, lavender, palma rosa, cypress. Sensitive:- chamomile, lavender, patchouli, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado, borage, calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, lime blossom
Pine (Pinus sylvesttris)Boils, cuts, sores, excessive perspirationEffects the corneum layer; esp. good for grayish smoker’s skinAll essential oils and carriers
Rosemary - verbenone type (Rosemarinus, officinalis verbenon)Mature, chronically dry aged skin, acne and oily skin, couperose or broken veinsRejuvenates skin*One of most important in skin care. Geranium, jasmine, lavender, myrrh, niaouli, palma rosa, patchouli, rose otto, rosewood
Rose Otto (Rosa damascene) Do not use absolute, as solvents are used to extract the essenceAll, esp. Dry, aging and sensitive skin, redness, rosacea, wrinkles, couperose, eczema, inflammations, radiation burnsAstringent, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, helps clear small broken capillaries, regulates hormones, stimulates nervous system, increases sexual desires. One of the best for skin!Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado,
Rosewood (Aniba roseodora var. amazonica)All skin - acne, eczema, dermatitis, scars, wrinkles, combination, sensitiveGentle, non-toxic, non-irritant, skin tonic, cell stimulant, tissue regeneratorcalendula, almond
Sandalwood (Santalum album)All skin types, esp. dry, acne, damaged skin, chapped or cracked skin, inflamedAnti-septic, moisturizing properties, has ability to penetrate the sub cutaneous layer, and can carry other oils there; increases capillary circulation, connective tissue and dermis are strengthened, increases water retention of collagenYlang ylang
Tagetes (Tagetes minuta)Do not use in sensitive skinCorns, bunions, calluses, fungal infections, insect bitesChamomile, cypress, lavender, rosewood, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia nut
Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)All skin types, absesses, boils, burns, cold sores, dandruff, fungal infections, infected skin, impetigo, insect bites, wartsWide spectrum antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, bactericidal, insect repellant, anti-fungal. Helps protect from radiation burns - after use rose and lavender.
Thyme (Thymus geraniol/linalool) Note: red thyme is very abrasive so use with caution, or just use linaloolPsoriasis, acne, dry, weeping eczemaStrong antiseptic, agent, but still gentle and healing to skin (this specific type) One of the broadest antimicrobial actions available
Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides)Mature, dry skin, woundsCellular regenerator, works on atrophic or slack skin
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)Acne, burns, sunburn, inflammation, eczema, warts, varisose veins, scarsBalances oily skin and scalp, promotes hair growth, encourages perspiration, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-allergentic, cicatrizant
Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata)Dry, oily combination, irritated, insect bitesBalances sebum

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*Note: Lavandin is crossed with Spike Lavender – which ends up having similar (but less pronounced) effects, and is more stimulating. Spike Lavender also helps abscesses come to a head.

  • Anticoagulant: prevents clot formations
  • Antineuralgic: relieves and reduces nerve pain
  • Antiphlogistic: reduces inflammation or fever
  • Antiseptic: discourages growth of microorganisms
  • Cicatrizant: an agent that aids in wound healing and formation of scar tissue
  • Granulation: The part of the healing process in which rough, pink tissue containing new connective tissue and capillaries forms around the edges of the wound.
  • Keratinization: the process by which the epidermis forms its outer layer
  • Neurotonic: strengthens and supports the nervous system
  • Phlebotonic: treats red veins (couperose) – strengthens veins



Facelift at Your Fingertips

Northern Star College of Mystical Studies – class notes 2005-08

HEAL reference manual from Essential Botanicals

We are a botanical apothecary, skincare boutique, and organic spa that celebrates everything that is natural and pure. Our shelves are stocked with beautiful toners, creams and serums, as well as dried herbs, essential oils, botanical butters and clays. At every turn, we seek to elegantly balance the efficacy of Science with the nourishment and art of Nature.

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